Drive through any Kitsap neighborhood and you'll see fences at every angle. It's rarely the boards that failed. It's the posts, and it comes down to a few decisions made on day one.
Post depth and concrete. A fence post here needs to be set at least a third of its length in the ground, in concrete, with the concrete crowned so water sheds away from the wood instead of pooling against it. Posts set in bare dirt or shallow holes are the number one reason fences lean after a couple of wet winters.
The right wood in the right spot. Pressure-treated posts go in the ground; cedar goes above it. Cedar resists rot and looks right, but it isn't built to sit in saturated soil for six months a year. Treated posts with cedar rails, boards, and caps give you the best of both.
Gates get their own rules. A gate is the part of the fence that moves a thousand times a year, so the gate posts should be bigger, set deeper, and braced. Add a diagonal brace to the gate frame and use hardware that won't rust through in salt air.
Finally, keep it off the ground. Boards that touch soil wick water and rot from the bottom. A couple of inches of clearance, plus a kickboard you can replace cheaply, keeps the rest of the fence dry. Done this way, a cedar fence on the Kitsap Peninsula should still be standing straight when your kids move out.